Below are several examples of how I have used this setup, as well as a lighting diagram.Īnd now comes the fun part. This one-flash method is great, but often I will need to add a second or third light, depending on the color, size and shape of the product I am shooting. I have used this lighting arrangement several different ways. The great thing about shooting with you products elevated is that you now have the option of placing a reflector or strobe underneath, to further sculpt the light. I angled the umbrella slightly and placed it just behind the sunglasses, to keep the light from spilling onto the black board. For lighting I have one LumoPro LP160 attached to a LP621 mini-boom arm, fired into a silver umbrella. In the top photo, you can see that all I have is a 2’x3’ piece of wood, covered in black fabric and a sheet of glass. Through working in this condition, I developed some cheap and easy lighting scenarios. Since I was shooting an average of 10 brands per day, I had to work quickly and in a tiny space. This is just going to happen so to prevent the ‘light spill’ we just need to use a modifier that will control where the light falls.During my time as the lifestyle photographer for JackThreads, I shot many different products in many different ways. You may well get a black screen with the camera settings but as soon as you introduce a flash you start seeing stuff in the background. If you’re doing this indoors then you need to consider reflections. ![]() If you’ve had to go to something like f/22 to get a black screen then your litle 4 AA Battery Speedlight might not be powerful enough to light your subject, so this is where you need to use a more powerful light … or take the pictures later in the day as I used to have to do. Now there are things to consider when doing this such as… So, go to something like f/11 and take another test shot, and so on until you get a completely black screen on the back of the camera when viewing the photograph you’ve just taken. If however you can still see stuff, then you need to darken the image down some more and the only option you have is to use the aperture. If you can see nothing but a blak screen on the back of the camera then you’re sorted you have undeexposed the ambient and this will end up being our black background. So, start off with something like F/8.0 and then take a photograph. The last part of the equation is the aperture, and this is where we' need to take a few test shots (without the flash being on for now). ![]() Again, forgetting High Speed Sync, but ordinarily a shutter speed that is too fast when using flash would result in a black area appearing in our pictures. For now let’s just talk about using the Maximum Sync Speed which is basically the maximum speed we can set the shutter to and that will still allow all the light from our flash to fill the sensor. This is where things have changed over recent years because now we have amazing technology such as High Speed Sync which is where we can use a flash with our cameras at up to 1/8000sec! That is nothing short of incredible and I’ll be covering exactly this in the updated video, but for now let’s take it steady and keep it simple. We need to make our camera as least sensitive to light as possible, so take the ISO down as low as it can go eg ISO 50, ISO 100. The first thing to do is to get the camera settings dialled in… ISO The idea behind the technique is really simple and needs minimal kit just a camera and a flash (preferably an off camera flash). ![]() ![]() I need to record a new and updated video going through the technique because with advances in technology a few things have changed, however that said, the principles are still the same and the original technique still stands.
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